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The Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club Newsletter April - May - June 2002 |
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The Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club Newsletter April - May - June 2002 |
HIKER KILLED ABOVE WAIMANALO
Nathan Yuen[On 24 February a hiker fell to his death from the ridge above Waimanalo. The trail is hiked often by HTMC, from Makapuu to the Tom Tom Trail, and by connecting from several leeward routes. The media reported little about the incident other than the basic facts. HTMC mem-ber Nathan Yuen happened to be hiking only a short distance behind the fallen hiker, and was almost an eye-witness to the event. His account, which adds considerable background, is given below. Ed.]
Yikes! I was pretty close--within 500 feet of the group--when the guy fell to his death. It happened on the Makapuu trail in the saddle immediately before the ironwood lunch spot. I was hiking up and down Makapuu testing out my new Nikon digital camera. I noticed a large group (maybe 25-30 people) who were heading down Makapuu. From the next puu over, I noticed the lead guy scampering down the side of the ironwood puu into the saddle. I watched him leave the trail and attempt to do some rock-climbing as they descended into the sad-dle. I watched in horror as he fell back after dislodging a couple of rocks and fell. Fortunately there was a ledge right under him, and he climbed back up, apparently unhurt. Since the rest of their group was a bit behind, the lead group waited and sat by lowest spot in the saddle and waited.
And then it happened. Becase of where I was situated, I did not see him fall, but I heard when they yelled out "HE FELL!" "HE FELL!". Since I always carry a 50-foot length of rope, I descended from the puu I was on into the saddle to see if perhaps I could help pull him out. But when I got to them and looked over at that spot where he fell, there was no rock ledge that could have caught him this time. He would have fallen several hundred feet into a deep chasm. YIKES! Anyway, while they were distraught that their friend had fallen, they said "he was doing stupid stuff". Stuff that I had witnessed earlier but which was not fatal. Apparently, lady luck was not with him this very last time. Sad... very sad.
HIKING THE KOHALA DITCH
(Pololu Valley to Waipio Valley with the Dodge family, by John B. Hall, with assistance from Fred and Alyce Dodge).
[This is the final installment of John's account of his grueling backpack through the backcountry of one of the most isolated areas of the Big Island].
The rain continued as we proceeded for another day to head for Waimanu. Set a course, strike a gulch, climb the mountain, cross the gully, head for Waimanu, and on and on. Once or twice we startled small pigs that seemed astounded to find us there, and quickly disappeared in the brush. That night, I again found suitably spaced, if unnervingly spindly trees for my hammock, but we were out of tree ferns, and Fred and his family had to pitch their tent directly on a muddy bank. Fred recalls that it was the "most miserable, totally wet, sleepless night we've probably ever had." I was amazed that neither of the youngsters ever complained, though I thought I noticed a certain reluctance to join their Dad and me on trips afterwards. I don't know how they cooked their meals. One night they ate cold trail snacks, I believe, and the next huddled under a tarp to cook their dinner. Fortunately, I had brought many books of matches, because my hands were constantly wet andI had nothing dry to wipe them on. After lighting the stove once, the book of matches was too damp to use again, so I had to find a fresh one for every meal. As Tootsie said, we were like travelers in the desert, looking and praying for an oasis, except that we were travelers trapped in an eternally wet oasis looking and praying for a spot of desert!
The fifth day began as a repeat of the previous two as we put on wet clothes, wet socks, and wet muddy boots in the rain. I felt sure we should be getting near the trail, which the map showed running down a broad ridge labeled Laupahoehoe 1 to a gauging station and two cabins marked as New USGS camp, and, further down the mountain, Old USGS camp. Of course, the map had been published in 1957 from surveys done several years before, so even the "New USGS camp" must have been at least 20 years old. I believe it was mid-afternoon when we scrambled up out of a gully onto a broad ridge covered with low brush. I was behind the others when I spied what appeared to be a slightly more open line running perpendicular to our course, but it was so faint and indistinct that I could not be certain it was a trail. It could well have been a natural feature that gave the illusion of a track. I called for the others to wait, while I turned right and went up it a few yards. Then I noticed that some stubs were protruding from the ground at the side of the trace--the ends of stems of the brush that had been cleanly sliced on the angle so typical of machete cuts. The cuts were quite old and it was obvious that the trail was no longer used frequently, if at all. I returned to my friends and announced, with a melodramatic flourish, "Either this is the trail or the pigs have started using machetes!"
We turned to the left and followed the dim path downhill for several miles in the fading light. Just before dusk, we saw the welcome sight of a corrugated aluminum roof on the slope below us. The New USGS camp had been built with a timber frame and aluminum walls and roof. The floor had rotted out and collapsed, but there was a pile of left-over aluminum sheets beside the cabin and we carried these inside to provide a floor that would keep us out of the mud and debris. The cabin was in such poor shape that we were not sure whether it was the New or the Old USGS camp, so Fred and I hiked on down the ridge for a quarter mile or so, until we could look down the slope and see the ruins of another camp a mile below us, which must have been the Old camp. I slung my hammock between two posts and the Dodges made themselves comfortable, relatively speaking, on the floor. After two nights in the rain, we were glad to be under roof, as primitive as it was. Fred claims that I slung my hammock under the only sound section of the roof and that they were still exposed to leaks and drips, but he tends to be seditious, and inclined to cast unjustified doubt on the felicity of my arrangements. I'm sure I wouldn't do such a thing.
During the night we heard some very strange calls outside. It sounded like some night flying bird was abundant in the vicinity, but I could not imagine what the noise could be. I knew there were night herons in the islands, and since the name implied that they were active at night, I thought that perhaps they had a rookery nearby, although there was no open water near large trees in the vicinity such as I believed they would favor for their nests. (After we returned to town, I mentioned these sounds to some of my friends in the Audubon Society, and they urged me to publish a report of the observations in the Elepaio, which I did). Apparently we had stumbled upon a significant colony of Newell's Shearwater, a sea bird that was known to nest on Kauai where it digs burrows under the uluhe on remote ridges. After our report, one of the Fish and Wildlife experts on the Big Island planned to hike down to the site to confirm the existence of this colony, but I never heard whether this was done.
In the morning we rose to find the weather clearing, and that we were not far from the rim of Waimanu Valley. We hiked makai down the broad slope parallel to the rim until we came to the ridge lying just upvalley from the gulch formed by Wai'ilikahi Stream as it pours over therim of Waimanu Valley as Wai'ilikahi Falls. With backpacks on, the descent of this very steep ridge was a precarious one, but as the alternative was to return the way we had come, we were determined to take it. Fortunately, the mass of uluhe helped to retard our descent, although at one point Tootsie lost her footing and tumbled down the slope a dozen feet or more. Fred was below her, and as she bumped into a tree, which slowed her fall, he was able to grab her. Luckily she was unhurt, and by cautiously picking our way we finally reached the bottom safely.
From above, the valley floor had appeared to be a lush spread of inviting green, a meadow offering easy passage. I had been in Waimanu Valley before, and knew that there was a path leading from the beach up to Wai'ilikahi Falls, but I was not certain how far from it we were, and the guava and Christmas berry bush in that direction appeared to be fairly dense, so I suggested that we cross the valley floor instead. This turned out to be a disastrous miscalculation--one of the worst I have made in a long lifetime devoted to perfecting the art! The lush greenery of the floor was composed of great clumps of some kind of giant grass that towered over our heads while the footing was an irregular tangle of swampy holes and hummocks that required great effort to move through. We should have turned around immediately when we encountered this obstacle course, but we kept thinking it would soon get better. At one point, we even tried to take to the stream, hoping it would be easier walking, but the water was over our heads, so this was not feasible either.
After two hours or so of fighting this morass in the hot sun and high humidity, we approached the palm trees lining the dunes behind the beach, only to find a shallow lagoon lying like a moat across our path. Charlie said later that this crossing of the valley floor was the most miserable, arduous, and unnecessary part of the trip as far as he was concerned. I slung my pack up onto my head and waded out into the muck and water, finding the deepest part came up to my armpits. I'm not sure how the the Dodges were able to get across, but in short order we were at last assembled on the beach, in an idyllic campsite in a valley that seemed completely deserted except for ourselves. We quickly spread out everything we owned to dry and took a dip to get clean, basking in the welcome sun and cool sea breezes, and the chance to be dry for the first time in days.
The next day we discovered that there was a good trail up to Wai'ilikahi Falls, about a 15 minute walk from the beach, and probably only a hundred yards or so from where we had descended the wall of the valley. We spent that day relaxing and drying out in Waimanu Valley, walking up to the falls, and taking a dip in the pool at its foot. I recalled that we had the valley all to ourselves, but one of Fred's pictures seems to show a stranger in our group at the falls, so perhaps there were a few other people there. In any case, the Valley was certainly much less visited at that time thanit is now. The next day we hiked out the 10 miles to Waipio Valley, meeting a couple of young fellows on their way in to do some conservation work, and taking another swim in a pool along the way. Tootsie startled another pig on a bend of the trail, but in all, the trip was much less eventful than our previous days. We had planned to do the trip in 5 days, but just in case, we carried provisions for 8. Not everything went wrong! It took us exactly 8 days. Fred's oldest daughter, Francesca, and some friends met us on the other side of Waipio Valley, somewhat concerned as we were later than expected and because of the storm, and took us into town.
Fred said he'd like to do the trip again sometime, but in the reverse direction. Locating the end of the Kohala Ditch Trail from above, however, and finding the right ridge to descend to reach it, would require a degree of clairvoyance, and I could not imagine trying to scale the precipitous Wai'ilikahi Falls ridge through the dense uluhe with a pack on my back, but I guess this goes to show that there are some backpackers even crazier than I am. In any case, we never did. This was a memorable trip, and illustrates Hall's First Law of Backpacking quite satisfactorily: "A well-planned trip in which everything runs smoothly will soon be forgotten." It is only when something goes awry and one is successful in surviving perils, mishaps,and misery, enduring acute anxiety, discomfort and exhaustion, but finally emerging more or less unscathed, that one looks back on the expedition in later years and recalls it fondly to mind while reminiscing with the comrades who shared its "delights!"
Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club ANNUAL RESUME' MARCH 2002The board of Directors has continued to conduct the regular business of the Club
Trail access through private property, as well as permission to hike on private property, continues to limit our trail inventory. Additionally, conservation efforts by Kamehameha Schools/Bishop Estate (KSBE), U.S. Army, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, and DLNR also impedes trail access. Blazing new trails responsibly, finding alternate routes, and seeking out special permission have been partially successful in maintaining our schedule of hikes throughout the year. Despite landowner liability concerns and conservation efforts which limit trail access, a new positive relationship with KSBE has been forged, beginning with the successful rerouting of the Mariner's Ridge Trail. This may lead to the reopening of some closed trails located on KSBE lands.
Volunteer efforts have enabled clubhouse operations and maintenance to continue.
Three (3) Directors positions to be filled by election this year. Nominations will be taken from the floor on SUNDAY, APRIL 7, 2002, 2:00 PM AT THE CLUBHOUSE.
Proposed change in bylaws to increase annual membership dues.
Highlights of the past year:
APR 01 Opae'ula watershed fence installed on the Ko'olau Summit between Pe'ahinai'a and Castle trails by U.S. Army Environmental Division. The final half mile of Pe'ahina'ia and one third of a mile of the Ko'olau Summit Trail (KST) used as corridor for the fence. In order to preserve integrity of KST, fence placed on side of trail and 8 wooden stiles erected to allow crossing of fence where fence runs perpendicular to KST.
Patrick Rorie re-elected HTMC President, Dayle Turner re-elected Vice President, and Mike Algiers elected treasurer. Carmen Craig appointed Recording Secretary, Laura Owens appointed Club accountant, and Beverly Valentino appointed chair of Da Kine Kokua committee. Alex Broadfoot ends his stint as Property Manager.
New HTMC Hike: Halapepe Nui, located between the Waimano and Waiau trails.
In conjunction with U.S. Fish & Wildlife, a group of HTMC volunteers cleared part of the Kipapa Ridge Trail.
MAY 01 Potluck/Slide Show "Peruvian Adventures" at Clubhouse.
HTMC Ko'olau Summit Backpack a muddy success.
JUN 01 Potluck/Slide Show "Paragliding in Paradise".
JUL 01 Clubhouse workday.
AUG 01 Potluck/Slide Show "Daily Life on Atiu, Cook Islands".
SEP 01 An enjoyable time had by all at the Kuolani-Waianu Campout/Backpack for Newbies.
World Trade Center Towers destroyed by terrorists - Resulting war in Afganistan lead to temporary closing of O'ahu trails on lands controlled by the military (Kuaokala, Kalena, Wahiawa Hills, Schofield-Waikane, Pupukea Summit), as well as O'ahu trails on lands near Board of Water Supply wells (Halawa Ridge, Kuolani-Waianu).
Malaekahana Family Campout a successful outing.
OCT 01 After a long hiatus, Kahuku Trail returned to the HTM roster.
Long time club member and former president Herman Medeiros passed away.NOV 01 New HTMC Hike: Onikiniki Ridge.
Thea Ferentinos ends her stint as Clubhouse Resident.
In conjunction with Kamehameha Schools/Bishop Estate and the State DLNR, volunteers from HTMC and the Sierra Club, along with a group of Kamehameha High School students installed check dams and rerouted the Mariner's Ridge Trail in Hawaii Kai. Trail officially reopened to the public.
Successful Thanksgiving Day Feast at the Clubhouse.DEC 01 In conjunction with U.S. Fish & Wildlife, a group of HTMC volunteers cleared more of the Kipapa Ridge Trail.
Maria Mankoff volunteers as Clubhouse Resident.JAN 02 The two HTMC lots in Waimanalo consolidated into one.
FEB 02 HTMC Mokule'ia Campout a success.
Due to rock slide, Manoa Falls, Aihualama, and Pauoa Flats trails temporarily closed.
MAR 02 New HTMC Hike: Godek/Jaskulski Ridge
Access restrictions to trails on lands controlled by U.S. Army eased.
Potluck/Slide Show by Ed Gilman, featuring photos of Kalalau, Koke'e, and Waimea Canyon.Proposed Bylaws Change: Membership Dues Increase
Because of higher expenses and the required annual Clubhouse Replacement Fund contribution, the Board of Directors will propose the following increases in membership dues at the Annual Meeting.
Category Proposed Current
Regular $20 $15
Family $30 $20
Life $400 $200
Family Life $600 $250
Life Member Spouse $15 $10
HIKE LEADERS NEEDED
Jay FeldmanAs all of you well know, HTMC is the premier hiking organization on this island, and over the years we have opened, maintained, and hiked hundreds of different trails. Everything we do is accomplished through the efforts of our volunteer membership. However, absolutely nothing would happen without the work of a very elite group of club members who volunteer as Hike Coordinators. Our club needs more hike coordinators and volunteer assistants. I know that many of you are experienced hikers and would make excellent coordinators. The training is easy and straight forward, and is conducted by Stuart Ball. Our coordinators normally lead one hike a quarter, but even one or two hikes a year would be of great help to the club. Sadly there is a scarce supply of women coordinators and assistants (so it's time to step up to the plate ladies) and when possible we like to have two people for each hike (two coordinators or one coordinator and an assistant). We appreciate those who have recently volunteered, and will soon begin the training process.
I know that many of you live a busy life, but the club needs capable, trustworthy, and knowledgeable coordinators. If you can help, please let Stuart know of your interest.
The club could also use help on several of its committees and we are especially in need of an Entertainment Chair and a Property Manager for the clubhouse.
KOOLAU SUMMIT TRAIL HISTORY - PART 6
Stuart BallSummit Trail Building-Castle to Kawailoa (10/34-03/35)
October 1934 found Foreman Landgraf and his CCC crew improving Castle Trail as part of the Summit Trail project. Their side camp stood on a small, but fairly dry site where the Castle Trail crossed Kaluanui Stream. During the work week the men lived on wild pig, killed in the vicinity of camp. Project Superintendent Olson tastefully remarked, "Although strong and gamey-flavored, the pork, when properly prepared, is quite edible."
On 18 October Forester Judd and Ranger Landgraf climbed the reconstructed Castle Trail past the tidy, well-run CCC camp to the saddle in the next ridge known as "the pig wire." Foreman Landgraf joined them there, and the three began scouting along the overgrown contour section of the trail for a feasible route to the summit. After floundering through Ma`akua and Kaipapa`u Gulches, all three decided the area was too rough for the new route. Judd then told Foreman Landgraf to extend the Castle Trail from "the pig wire" up the ridge to the summit at a 12% grade.
As instructed, Landgraf built the Castle extension to reach the Ko`olau summit near the Kaipapa`u cabin. There his crack trail crew turned northwest and resumed construction of the Summit Trail. During the fall and early winter the weather was decent, and progress was steady through this wet and muddy section.
Foreman Landgraf organized his 30-man crew into three groups. First on the trail were 2 to 3 surveyors, who ranged ahead to determine and mark the proposed route. Next came 2 to 3 clearers, who cut brush and trees with cane knives and saws. Last were 24 to 26 pick-men who dug and graded the new trail. The rate of progress varied with the terrain, vegetation, and weather. On the section northwest of Castle, the summit trail crew averaged 16 feet of new trail built per man-day.
It was not to last. In January 1935 the wet season arrived with a vengeance. Cold, soaking rain swept the summit day after day. Work slowed and then stopped as men and tools became mired in the mud. Landslides obliterated whole sections of newly built trail. On 20 January Landgraf and his wet, weary crew retreated down the mountain, not to return for over a month.
Work on the Summit Trail resumed on 1 March as the weather improved marginally. The Honolulu Unit had previously relocated the side camp to a site near the Kaipapa`u cabin just below the summit. After repairing the storm damage, Landgraf's trail crew pushed steadily northwest. On 31 March 1935, the end of the second six-month ECW period, the men were within 0.5 mile of the junction with the new Kawailoa Trail at Pu`u Ka`inapua`a.
Honolulu Unit records for the Summit Trail project during that period show 4.6 miles of new trail completed (including the Castle Trail extension) in 1,514 man-days, and 8.1 miles maintained in 223 man-days. Camp duties, such as ferrying supplies and hunting and cooking wild pigs, took an additional 991 man-days for a total of 2,731 man-days. The Honolulu Unit also completed the Waiawa [Kipapa] Trail during the period, and the Wahiawa Camp completed the Kawailoa and Poamoho Trails.
Next: There was no drought in 1935. "at this side camp the sun does not shine for weeks at a time because of low hanging clouds and incessant rain, trail and campsite perpetually muddy, conditions are very disagreeable." Where is this Godforsaken place? Find out in Koolau Summit Trail History - Part 7.
NEWSLETTER SUBMISSIONS
ALONG THE TRAIL is a quarterly publication of the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club designed to inform the membership of club activities and matters of interest to the hiking community. HTMC members and any other interested parties are welcome to submit articles to ALONG THE TRAIL. Submissions must be received by the 5th day of March, June, September, and December in order to appear in the newsletter published for the quarter, and may be sent in any of the following ways (email preferred):
E-Mail: Richard27@prodigy.net
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FAX: 293-2603
Phone: 293-2554
Mail: Richard McMahon
57-531 Kamehameha Hwy
Kahuku, HI 96731-2128
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Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club
P.O. Box 2238
Honolulu, HI 96804
Clubhouse: 41-023 Puuone St
Waimanalo, HI 96795
Phone: 259-5443
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