The Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club

HTMC Hikers' Guide to The Island of Hawaii


HAWAII (THE BIG ISLAND)

The Big Island offers variety to hikers and has more of a "wide open spaces" feel than the other islands. There are miles of unspoiled coast line, 13,000 ft. mountains sometimes covered with snow, active volcanoes, a desert, isolated valleys, lava tubes, waterfalls and more than you can explore in even a long visit. A recorded message at (808) 985-6000 provides current volcano eruption information. For information on State Parks and cabins write to Division of State Parks, P.O. Box 936, 75 Aupuni St., Hilo, HI 96720 (808-974-6200) or www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/dsp.html. For information on County of Hawaii Parks: www.hawaii-county.com/parks/parks.htm

Day Hikes

By far the best area is Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park (808) 985-6000. Their website is http://www.nps.gov/havo

You can obtain trail maps at the visitor center - open from 7:45am to 5:00pm daily. .

We can recommend the Kilauea Iki Trail (4 miles roundtrip) for a 2-3 hr. introductory hike that passes through native forest and a recently active crater. Start at the Kilauea Iki overlook.

For an all day excursion, try the 11 mile Crater Rim Trail that circles the Kilauea Caldera passing through rainforest on one side and desert on the other. Numerous short trails lead from the vicinity of park headquarters and Volcano House. .

Two excellent day hikes in a less frequented area of the park start at the Hilina Pali overlook. Few tourists hike here. One trail switchbacks steeply down to the coast to Kaaha Point, about 8 miles RT. There is a simple shelter with a water catchment system. Look for a small cairn north of the shelter which marks an interesting freshwater crack where you can take a refreshing dip.

The second hike (9.6 level miles RT) is less strenuous. It leads through meadowlands to a cabin at Kipuka Pepeiao where there is also water. Nene (Hawaiian geese) come here frequently.

For the ambitious, it is possible to hike 7.5 miles from the end of Mauna Loa Strip Road (alt. 6662 ft. - 2,031m ) to Red Hill (alt. 110,035 ft - 3,059m). Red Hill is a large cinder cone on the flank of Mauna Loa and is very close to the main vent of the 1984 eruption. This is the first leg of the trail leading to the summit of Mauna Loa (alt. 13,677 ft - 4,039m).

For the more ambitious it is possible to hike to the summit of Mauna Loa and back in one day via the Observatory Trail which begins from the weather observatory at 11,150 ft. Saddle Road (Hwy 200) begins in Hilo, is not in the national park, and although it has been recently paved, most car rental companies still prohibit driving on it. The hike is 3.8 miles to the caldera and another 2.6 miles to the true summit where hikers can write an entry into the summit journal. Be sure you are well prepared. The trail is rough and remote - few folks come here. (We get many inquiries about climbing Mauna Kea (alt. 13,796 ft.) This climb is more strenuous and less rewarding for wilderness lovers because there is a road to the top of the mountain. It is often possible to ski on Mauna Kea in the winter.)

The coastal part of Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park is less visited than the upper portion. The Chain of Craters Road, which leads to this area, is open; however, recent lava flows have blocked access to the coastal area from the Kalapana side. The coast here is peaceful: lava cliffs; old village sites; very few people. Just after the 16 mile marker on Chain of Craters Road, there is a small pullout on the left side of the road. A trail starting here leads to the Pu'uloa petroglyph field. The trail and pullout are well marked.

Camping

There are a number of campgrounds at the national park. The most accessible is Namakani Paio, located at the summit of Kilauea - 31 ½ miles from Hilo. (It rains frequently and is cool here at 4000 ft.) There are simple A-frame cabins that may be rented from the Volcano House hotel (volcanohouse@earthlink.net). There are two good country stores in the village of Volcano about 1 mi. from the entrance to the park. Volcano House hotel, perched on the edge of Kilauea Caldera, is a congenial place to stay. (Just avoid it at noon when the tour buses descend.) For cabin or hotel reservations, write to: Volcano House, Hawaii National Park, HI 96718, Phone (808) 967-7321 or email: volcanohouse@earthlink.net. Kulanaokuaiki, a campground on the Hilina Pali Road, is ideal for hikers intending to explore the Mauna Iki or Kau Desert trails.

Day hikes outside the volcano area

Waipio Valley (50 mi. north of Hilo at the end of Rt. 24) is lush and tropical with several high waterfalls and a beach. This is not wilderness; people live down there and jeeps bring visitors for picnics. Nevertheless, you can find solitude and trails to explore. Walk down into the valley on the jeep road.

From the town of Captain Cook on the Kona coast a steep 2.5 mile trail leads to Kealakekua Bay. The trailhead (jeep road) starts 1/10 mi. from the intersection of Bay Road and Rt. 11. Near the end of the trail there is a bronze plaque marking the spot where Captain James Cook, the English explorer, was killed. The snorkeling here is magnificent.

Backpacking

Halape is the most popular coastal destination within Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. There are several ways to get there, the shortest being from Hilina Pali and the most gradual downhill is via the Keauhou Trail. There is a shelter there with rainwater caught off the roof of the shelter. Keauhou also has a water catchment system. Be sure to pack a good water filter for your hike. We don't recommend sleeping in the shelters due to the animal life they contain. Pepeiao cabin and Ka'aha are other possibilities. You can reach Pepeiao by means of the Kau Desert Trail or from the Hilina Pali trailhead. These are 2-3 day trips. Of course you can combine them all and take longer. A good map of the area is available at park headquarters.

The most challenging and interesting trip on the Big Island is the ascent of Mauna Loa. Climb to Red Hill, as described above, and spend the night in the cabin. From there the trail threads its way 11 miles through a volcanic wilderness of cinder cones, spatter cones, pits, lava tubes, pumice fields and rivers of frozen lava. At the top you will find a large caldera rimmed with 700 ft. red cliffs. Except for a recently discovered insect, there is not a living thing here; it is like being on another planet. A cabin with bunks and water has been thoughtfully provided by the NPS. Bring a warm sleeping bag and be prepared for snow at any time of year. Sunburn is a danger at this altitude. From the cabin it is still a half day's hike to the true summit on the other side of the caldera. Allow 4-5 days for complete trip. The trail is not too steep but the altitude does affect you. Many of us consider this the finest hike in Hawaii. Inquire at the visitor center about water at the cabins before starting.

Outside the volcano area, the best known trip is to Waimanu Valley, 7 miles beyond Waipio Valley, which is described above. This is a rugged coast with many ups and downs, somewhat like the Na Pali coast of Kauai. (If you fly in to Hilo, sit on the right side of the airplane for a great view of this coast with its valleys and impressive waterfalls.)

Call or write the Hawaii Division of Forestry for a brochure, trail map and camping permit information. The phone number is (808) 974-4221, and the address is 19 E. Kawili St., Hilo, HI 96720. Office hours are 8 AM to 4 PM, Monday through Friday. Their website is www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dofaw/index.html .

Revised October 2001 by Norrie Judd